News From The Favored City (Number III and last)
By Edward Young Haslam
Published on April 27th, 1876 in The Southern Cross

Very Rev. Editor of the Southern Cross,

E. Y. Haslam (1808-1878)

I have already dilated somewhat extensively on the natural beauties of Paraná. I have now to discourse a little on its moral and social advantages. I verily believe that it is without an equal in the republic for facilities afforded in the way of educationl and, happy people, these Paranaenses! They have not one farthing to pay for their children being well taught and supplied with books and other requisites for instruction. Paternal governments pay a large part of the cost, and the Sisters of Charity do the rest. The great establishment is the normal school for the education of teachers, connected with which are “model schools” for both sexes. The training school for masters numbers about 30, and the model schools about 200. The whole is under a rector and vice-rector, both citizens of the United States, and a staff of five or six professors of various nationalities; whilst three ladies, also from the United States, conduct the large model schools. These lady-teachers are said to be excellent, and serve as models for the budding masters in the art of teaching. The cost of this establishment is about 60.000 patacons a year, besides the supply of books an apparatus. The alteration of the building and the erection of the new classrooms have to be added to the above charges. The school has not been established more than four or five years; consequently its full results have not been attained. Last term six young men received their diplomas as certified superior masters, and at the end of the present year that number is expected to be doubled. Whatever doubts may cross some minds as to the fruits being worth the cost to the nation, there can be none whatever that the advantages to the locality are immense. Free education, and that of a kind scarcely equaled perhaps in any other part of the republic, is of itself enough to make Paraná a desirable residence for families; and if to this are added its beauty and salubrity, the cheapness of living, and the moral habits of the people, persons of means have all they can desiderate. Of the school under the charge of the Sisters of Charity I am unable to give further particulars than that it is numerously attended, and that religious teaching is sedulously cultivated.

The dwellers in the “port,” who are for the most part of the humbler class, have also their school. This institution pertains to the provincial government, which has also been ambitious to erect a female normal school. A building for the purpose has been begun close to San Miguel Church, but is for the present in a state of paralysis, suffering from the prevailing infirmity of lack of funds. The national normal school is, however, supplying its place by receiving within its walls a number of young ladies in training as schoolmistresses. The lady-students have, like the young men, their “becas,” or small government allowance, to assist in their maintenance. It will thus be seen that juvenile society in Paraná has a strong scholastic shade of color, and that this favored city is becoming a focus of enlightenment soon to shed its rays into the dark corners of the republic.



After this pretty compliment let not your readers suppose that I am “subventioned” by any local authorities, municipal or educational, to “write up” Paraná. Such is not the fact; though if the ruling powers should decree me a gold medal, or any trifle of that kind, my modesty would be put to the proof how to refuse it. Nor have I an interest in any trifle of that kind, my modesty would be put to the proof how to refuse it. Nor have I an interest in any camp lands or building lots to benefit, by which I may seem to be alluring our Hibernian friends to come and settle here. No; I am a perfectly disinterested admirer of this country, and if any enterprising sheep-farmer should be tempted to come and spy the land he will at least find that he will have no need to dread the Indian. That scourge to civilization never plants his foot in this province. Even a taste for revolution has died out, And Dr. Alsina’s friend López Jordán is no longer the gaucheo’s idol, and I verily believe, from what I hear around me, that the heroic Urquiza-killer could not muster to the extent of a sergeant’s guard to march with him to the province, were he to make another throw at the old game of rebellion. Let it not, however, be supposed that the actual government is a popular one. Far from it; it is utterly condemned as worthless, but people here have lost all faith in politically factions, and public affairs, either provincial or national, have become insipid and nauseous. Time was, they tell me, when ‘Blanco’ clubs and ‘Colorado ’clubs were in full rivalry. Now there are no political clubs at all, and every man confines his attention to his private business, with a sly peep now and then at his neighbor’s.

There is, however, a social club, its main purpose being to get up monthly balls, at which the “beauty, elegance,” etc. attend in numbers; and, happily for the ladies, the “normals,” as the youths from the training school are called, give an ample supply of cavaliers.

There is also a theatre of good dimensions, but no permanent company of actors. Since my arrival it has only been used for the exhibition of dissolving views. The mode of announcing performances struck me as original: it is by discharging rockets; and auctions are announced in the same way. Two other institutions I have not named: these are post and telegraph offices, both well managed. In the latter office two of our country-men are employed, one as inspector, the other as clerk. The English-speaking element in Paraná society is rather limited, not numbering more than a baker’s dozen. However, what it lacks in quantity it makes up in quality, that is, in a literary way. The ladies are all “Bas bleux” of the deepest dye, profound in poetry and romance, with just a touch of woman’s rights. The gentlemen are argumentative politicians – not as to Argentine affairs, this republic being too small to merit attention; but on the larger European interests, such as the Eastern question, that of Cuba, the merits and the reverse of General Grant (that gallant leader being, I regret to say, in a decided minority amongst Paraná politicians) – on all such questions much eloquence is displayed.

The “circulating medium” is rather perplexing to a stranger, its varieties being so numerous. Buenos Aires paper, national and provincial, is readily taken. Then there is that of the “litoral” or local bank, that of the State Bank of Santa Fé, next a new issue, just come into circulation, of Entre Riano treasury notes of small denomination, and which is to displace all issues of provincial banks under five fuertes; and lastly, the silver Bolivian dollar, with its subdivisions in copper. The Bolivian is the standard on which all calculations are based, and the “Litoral” notes and those of Santa Fé are in Bolivians, but the treasury notes of the province are fuertes. There is therefore a constant demand for mental arithmetic in arranging settlements. The government of this province have taken to banking as a last resource for “Raising the wind”and to keep up the payment of their London loan as long as they can, a very honorable motive, and to be commended. But –alas that it should be said! – Entre Riano stock, so highly commended by Mr. Henry James in the House of Commons, is held in little esteem here, and may be expected to be the first to be “repudiated”. Well, let us hope that this ominous word may never be heard in connection with Argentine stock of any description; but the high position of “Entre Rianos”compared with “Nationals” in the London market shows how profoundly ignorant are our countrymen at home of the real state of this republic.

The only places in the neighborhood I have had time to inspect are a small Swiss farm in the outskirts, well kept; an estancia about three leagues away; the abode of an American family from California; and a colony called Villa Urquiza, containing about 1000 souls. The description of this last and its destitute religious condition would fill a long letter and would be worth writing if there were any hope of interesting those competent to send succor.

Your readers will by this time have had “quantum suff.” of Paraná, and will be glad to leave it. I leave it too, and most unwillingly; but my holiday is over, and again I return to the “cedulas”, bonds, bankruptcies and brokers of the great city.



Y.